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The Elder Scrolls V: Skyrim Hints
How can I get to Ustengrav?
1 of 7: Start by fast-traveling back to the Western Watchtower, then head north.
2 of 7: When you reach Bleakwind Basin, go around it on either side if you don't want to fight the giants and mammoths. They won't turn hostile unless you get too close to them.
3 of 7: Go north from the basin until you reach the Silent Moons Camp, then stay under cover at its south end and let the resident bandits come to you. (Note that one or more of them may be mages.)
4 of 7: Go NW from the south end of the camp, toward the gap you can see between two large mountains in the distance. Watch out for wandering mammoths as you go.
5 of 7: Head down the gap between mountains to reach the huge Labyrinthian area. You'll encounter a frost troll or two as you make your way through the area, so have your Whirlwind Sprint shout ready to use if you want to speed past the trolls instead of fighting them.
6 of 7: At the north end of the area, either use the stairs or carefully drop down the rocks to reach the ground, then go straight north until you find the Kjenstag Ruins.
7 of 7: Continue going north until you reach a stream, then cross it and make your way around to where the quest marker is to reach Ustengrav.